By Brian Tracy

To deal with change, perhaps the most valuable quality you can develop is flexibility. Form the habit of remaining open-minded and adaptable to new information and circumstances. When things go wrong, as they sometimes will, instead of becoming upset or frustrated, practice looking into the change or reversal for the opportunity or benefit it might contain.

Superior men and women are invariably those who remain calm and keep their wits about them in the midst of unexpected turbulence. They take a deep breath, they relax, and they assess the situation objectively. They keep themselves calm and unemotional by asking questions and seeking information when things don’t work out as they expected. For example, if someone doesn’t fulfill a commitment, or if a sale is canceled, or fails to go through, they keep their minds clear and steady by asking questions, such as “What exactly happened in this situation?” They deal with change by focusing on getting the facts before reacting. They develop the ability to cut through the confusion and ask questions such as “Why did this happen? How did it happen? How serious is it? Now that it has happened, what are the various things we can do?”

The critical issue in dealing with change is the subject of control. Most of your stress and unhappiness comes as a result of feeling out of control in a particular area of your life. If you think about the times or places where you feel the very best about yourself, you will notice that you have a high degree of control in those places. One of the reasons why you like to get home after a trip is that, after you walk through your front door, you feel completely in control of your environment. You know where everything is. You don’t have to answer to anyone. You can relax completely. You are back in control.

Brian Tracy is legendary in the fields of management, leadership, and sales. He has produced more than 300 audio/video programs and has written 28 books, including his just-released book “The Psychology of Selling.” Special offer: To receive your free copy of “Crunch Time!, just visit www.briantracy.com and click on the Crunch Time! icon. He can be reached at (858) 481-2977 or www.briantracy.com.

If you’ve ever fantasized about quitting your job and starting a business, you’re certainly not alone. However, it’s definitely not something to do on a whim – you’ll need time and good advice.

A business startup requires parallel planning in advance for your business and personal finances. That’s because business owners – even those who are acquiring ongoing businesses or starting their own companies on the cheap – quickly find their business and personal finances are inextricably linked.

That means that before you plan the business, plan your finances first. Here are some basic steps to consider right now:

Get some advice first:
You need not one, but two sets of financial advice when starting a business. The first involves the viability of your business concept. You should understand your business idea inside and out before you launch and what your new company’s immediate and long-term cash needs will be. The second set of advice involves your own finances and how prepared you are for what will surely be a major lifestyle transition. Because new business owners frequently underestimate their new business’s expenses starting out, they can find themselves funding those business needs out-of-pocket. That means less money for day-to-day living expenses as well as long-term planning for retirement. That’s why it’s critical to consult a tax and financial expert such as a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional at the outset.

Get rid of your debts:
With the possible exception of mortgage debt, there’s very little “good debt” in the life of a businessperson. So while you’re researching your business concept and putting together your own financial plan, start cutting back and erasing as much credit card and adjustable-rate debt from your personal life as possible. The credit crisis is making it tough for any business owner – even experienced ones – to borrow money at attractive rates.  You’ll have the most flexibility when you owe as little as possible.

Work on your emergency fund:
While it’s wise for everyone to have 3-6 months of cash set aside for basic living expenses in case they lose their job or face a medical emergency, emergency funds are particularly necessary for new business owners. Startups can be particularly expensive, and most businesses are not profitable from day one. Plan a more extensive emergency fund for yourself and for the business as well.

Start thinking about your legal business structure:
Your personal financial situation and the kind of business you’re starting should determine the legal designation of your company.
Before choosing a business structure, such as a sole proprietorship, S or C corporation, partnership, Limited Liability Partnership (LLP), or Limited Liability Company (LLC), owners should reflect on their business in the context of their overall financial life and ask themselves a series of questions:

• Is the business going to be your primary source of personal wealth and daily cash flow?
• Is it a side business?
• Do you expect the business to pay for your retirement?
• Do you want it to provide other financial benefits?
• Do you want to pass it on to family members or sell it to existing employees or outside buyers?

The answers to these questions figure importantly into the decision, along with other key factors such as what type of business you’re starting, its risk factors, current tax laws, and regulations such as workman’s compensation.

Plan your healthcare and other basic benefits:
Automatic benefits are the plus side of working for someone else. When you’re working for yourself, you become your own HR department and chances are you won’t be able to match your old employer’s buying power. If you support a family with these benefits or if you have particular health concerns, you need to price the out-of-pocket costs of such benefits before starting your own company – depending on the business and the cost of those benefits, you might want to rethink your plans.

Price disability coverage now:
You might have short-term disability coverage as part of your current employee benefits, but that will likely end once you quit your job. You should price long-term disability coverage based on your present working salary so you can qualify for the highest possible benefit. Disability coverage is critical for self-employed people since they’re their own support system.

It’s hard to imagine functioning in today’s society without access to credit. However, you need to be careful not to fall victim to some of the pitfalls associated with it.

Revolving credit can make it hard for you to pay off debt

Credit cards allow you to spend money you don’t currently have, and to repay what you’ve spent over time instead of all at once. When you use a card, the balance you owe increases, and your remaining available credit decreases. As you make your payments to reduce your outstanding balance, your available credit once again increases. Thus, your credit revolves around for you to use again.

Since you can spend more than you currently have, you can easily spend more than you can afford. As your balance increases, your minimum monthly payments also increase, and soon you’ll find yourself in over your head–especially if interest rates and a variety of fees are high.

Interest and fees can add to the cost

Credit card debt generally carries a high interest rate. Your minimum monthly payment–a percentage (often as low as 2 to 4 percent) of the total balance due–may cover little more than the monthly interest charge. Consequently, your minimum payment may only minimally decrease what you already owe. If possible, increase your monthly payment above the minimum required. The higher you can make the payment, the faster you will pay off the debt.

When opening a new account, always check to see how the finance charge is calculated. Here are some of the methods used:

• Adjusted balance method: Balance due at the beginning of the billing cycle less any payments made during the cycle; excludes new purchases made during the cycle
• Previous balance method: Balance due at the beginning of the billing cycle
• Average daily balance method: Total of the balances due each day in the billing cycle divided by the number of days in the cycle; payments made are subtracted as posted to determine daily balances; new purchases may or may not be added in
• Two-cycle average daily balance method: Same as the average daily balance method, but over two consecutive billing cycles

The amount of your finance charge can vary widely from method to method. Because finance charges result in higher interest charges, creditors favor either of the last two methods mentioned above.

In an effort to attract your business, many lenders offer very low introductory rates–3.9 percent annually or less. However, these rates generally last no more than three to six months and increase to the current market rate thereafter. Moreover, the introductory rates may apply only to balances you transfer from other cards. They may not apply to new purchases and rarely if ever to cash advances. Finally, if your monthly payment is late, the interest rate may be automatically raised to the current market rate–and sometimes beyond.

If you have two different interest rates on one account (e.g., a lower rate for purchases, a higher one for cash advances), the creditor will post the payments toward the lower interest rate balance, not the higher. To avoid this, use two different cards if possible–one for purchases you will pay off when the bill comes (thus incurring no interest charge) and the second, lower-rate card if you have to carry a balance.

You may also incur a wide variety of fees. Creditors may charge you an annual fee to maintain the account. These fees can range from $25 to $50 or more each year. They may also charge fees to transfer balances from other cards. Generally, these processing fees equal 2 to 4 percent of the amount you transfer. Many banks levy a similar surcharge on transactions involving conversions from foreign currencies. If you’re late with your monthly payment, you may be charged a late payment fee that can be as much as $39 each month you’re overdue. If your account balance rises above your approved credit limit, you will be assessed a monthly overlimit fee until you bring the total balance due under the limit you’re allowed.

When these fees add up, you may find that making your minimum monthly payment won’t bring your balances down. In fact, your balance will increase if your monthly payment isn’t greater than the accumulated interest and fees due, since these unpaid charges become a part of the principal you owe. Moreover, your account may then be considered past due and reported as such to the credit bureaus.

If you surf your debt, beware the wake

You may periodically transfer your balance from one introductory offer to the next. This is known as surfing. Done successfully, surfing lets you avoid the higher interest charges that your debt would incur when the original card offer expires. By the time the interest rate on the original card increases, you’ve surfed over to a new offer at another low rate.

Although surfing helps keep your interest charges to a minimum, it’s not without pitfalls. You may be offered a low rate only on balance transfers; if new purchases and cash advances are billed at a higher interest rate, these charges could offset the savings you would otherwise enjoy. Moreover, as creditors move to counteract the surfing trend, many stipulate that if you transfer balances to another card within a certain time after opening your account, you’ll be retroactively charged a higher rate of interest on the amount you transfer. Thus, surfing before this time period is up eliminates the savings.

Finally, if you transfer balances to a new card, close the original account as soon as you’ve paid it off. Write the creditor a letter (keep a copy for your records) asking it to inform the credit bureaus that the account was closed at your request. This prevents new potential creditors from denying you credit when they see too many open lines of credit, and it also deters anyone else from fraudulently using an inactive account.

Protect yourself against credit fraud and identity theft

Credit fraud (the illegal use of your accounts) and identity theft (opening new credit using information about you) are two of the fastest-growing crimes today. In many cases, you may not know you’ve been victimized until it’s too late. Here are some indicators of these crimes:

• A creditor informs you that it received an application in your name
• You’ve been approved for or denied credit you didn’t apply for
• You no longer get your credit card statements in the mail
• Your credit card statements include purchases or cash advances you never made

To minimize the chances of being victimized, take precautions to safeguard your credit account information. Don’t carry credit cards you don’t use often. Be sure to sign your cards, and never sign a blank charge slip. When you use the card, try to keep it within your sight. Save your receipts, and obtain and destroy any carbons. Don’t allow a sales clerk to write your credit card number on a check “for identification.” Finally, never give out your account number over the telephone unless you initiated the call and know the organization to be reputable.

April 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by Martin V Higgins,CFP , a local member of FPA.

Even if you’ve planned relatively well for your future college student’s expenses, the credit crunch and downturn in investment income for colleges have changed the game for financial aid at many schools. That means both parents and students need to approach the college financial aid scene with unprecedented caution.

Harvard University, the world’s richest school, announced in February that it was slashing 25 percent of its investment staff after its $36.9 billion endowment lost 22 percent of its value in the previous four months and could decline as much as 30 percent by the end of June.  In two separate surveys released in January, the Commonfund Institute and TIAA-CREF, in a survey done for the National Association of College and University Business Officers, reported that college endowments fell on average 23 percent in the five months ended Nov. 30, 2008.

Why is this important? It’s true that endowments at schools of all sizes mostly pay for faculty and facilities. But they also provide both grants and scholarships for talented students who need them and have been under significantly more pressure to do so. When students have a tougher time finding lower-cost school financing, the demand for scholarship and grant funding goes sky-high. In many cases, students are forced down the borrowing chain to increasingly risky loan options.

The private student loan sector has also been hit by reports of questionable practices in the last two years. In December, New York Attorney General Andrew M. Cuomo reached an agreement with the College Board – the developer and administrator of the SAT and AP – to stop discounting products and services in exchange for a ranking on colleges’ preferred lenders list.  The College Board will now invest $675,000 to develop a set of tools to help financial aid administrators to help students and parents compare student loan offers and identify the lowest-cost loan options.

What can you do? One of the best starting points is a meeting with a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional with specific expertise in planning for college and financial aid options.  The smartest thing is to work with a planner when kids are young to amass the right amount of savings for college, but it makes good sense for both parents and students to meet with a planner before school starts to underscore the complete list of financial issues the student will face. These include:

Planning alternatives for financial aid shortfalls: Over the past few years, colleges have not been able to offer adequate amounts of funding through Perkins, Stafford and Plus federal education loans, and private student loans through banks have closed up with the credit crunch. For students already admitted at schools for their freshman year in the fall, financial aid letters will start going out this month.
Here’s the catch – many college students get in trouble with debt because they are unaware that many for-profit companies advertising access to federal loans pull their financing from private sources that cost the borrower far more than actual federal loans would.  The ability to plan for college well in advance and work with an expert to sift through proper loan alternatives can make the difference between an affordable debt load when a student graduates and potential bankruptcy.

Setting a budget as early as possible for basic expenses: Until the student gets to school it will be tough to tell what actual expenses will be, but it won’t hurt to set a tentative budget that involves taking full account of the student’s savings, the parents’ (and possibly the grandparents’) contribution to everyday expenses and any planned income from work-study or other sources. For a template of a budget written specifically for college students, go to: http://www.aie.org/Calculators/budgetworksheetinschool.cfm

Start managing credit and debit cards before school starts: The time to start managing credit and bank accounts isn’t freshman year. While a teenager won’t build a credit history as an authorized user on a parent’s card, it’s good to get a little practice using it under a parent’s watchful eye. When a child goes on to college, the challenge will be looking for the best credit card offer amongst many and managing that credit responsibly. This is another good reason for both parent and student to meet with a financial planner ahead of school to discuss proper credit card usage and monitoring of a student’s fledgling credit score.

March 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by Martin V Higgins,CFP , a local member of FPA.

Municipal bonds have long been a safe haven for higher-income investors looking for safety and greater tax efficiency. The credit squeeze put the municipal bond market through its paces like other competing markets this year, but it may be time to take a second look at both municipal bonds and muni bond funds.

Let’s start with a definition of what a municipal bond is. A municipal bond, or muni, is a bond issued by a local government or their agencies to raise funds for a host of reasons tied to keeping the government going.  The potential issuers may include cities, counties, redevelopment agencies, water and sewer projects, school districts, publicly owned airports, seaports and other transportation entities.  They pay for everything from immediate government expenses to new roads and various public projects. Municipal bonds come in two flavors—general obligation bonds and revenue bonds. General obligation bonds are intended to raise immediate capital to cover government expenses; revenue bonds are the ones that fund infrastructure projects.

As an incentive for investors to buy these bonds, interest income is often exempt from federal income tax as well as the income tax of the state in which they are issued.  Mutual funds that invest in municipal bonds also offer the same tax treatment.

This year has held lots of excitement for muni investors and those who were hoping to be. The credit crunch sucker-punched funding sources for public projects as well as private investments–many municipalities ended up dropping certain projects because investors weren’t there to buy the paper and other sources of financing had dried up as well.

Who’s fled the muni market? Hedge funds, issuers of structured notes and municipal bond mutual funds trying to keep up with redemptions from tapped-out investors. Right now, the best source of demand for munis is individuals, who can account for only so much business. But in the absence of other buyers, that’s potentially good news for you.

Keep in mind that even during the Great Depression, no state defaulted on its general-obligation bonds, and while some munis have defaulted, overall, such defaults are very, very rare.

So where’s the opportunity for you? Look at some of the highly rated outstanding bonds.  You’ll find some amazing yields that you certainly won’t find in CDs and other investments. Even though their prices have plunged, some municipals late last year were offering long-term, tax-free yields of five percent and above, which translate into the equivalent of nearly seven percent for taxpayers in the 28 percent bracket and nearly eight percent for someone in the top 35 percent bracket when the tax exemption is considered.

That’s a very nice return relative to U.S. Treasuries, considered the safest investments of all.

But before you buy, here are some things to know and steps to follow.

Are munis right for you? The first call you make shouldn’t be to a broker. It should be to your tax professional and your financial adviser. A CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional can take a look at your entire taxable investment portfolio (there’s no point in putting tax-exempt munis into tax-exempt accounts like IRAs or 401(k)s) and determine whether they’re the right approach to take for your investments.

What munis are in trouble? There are some governments who issued a hybrid muni known as a variable-rate demand note. These were sold mainly to institutions with maturities of up to 30 years that were paying at rates reset as frequently as once a day. During the crisis, the rates on these notes have shot up to double-digit territory, putting the municipalities that issued them under particular strain due to short-term interest rates that can be reset as frequently as once a day.

Keep an eye peeled for the AMT: While most munis pay interest that’s free from federal income taxes, some may pay rates that are subject to the alternative minimum tax, known as the AMT.  It’s a little more complicated than we have space for here, but this is absolutely why you need to talk to your tax professional or financial planner before making a move into munis.

Don’t forget to ladder: “Laddering” is a portfolio structuring term. To ladder bonds means that you are buying them with maturities occurring at regular intervals, so when they mature, you’ll have money to reinvest at those same regular intervals.

Watch those ratings: Yes, the main private investment ratings firms–Moody’s and Standard & Poor’s among them–have been in the doghouse for rating many battered investments highly, not just munis. But most municipals rated AA or AAA are generally safe to consider. It’s also important to check the issuer’s long-term ratings history. If they’ve been consistently highly ranked over decades and the municipality has no financial scandal (something that can be checked through news archives on the Internet), that’s another good way to research a bond issuer before making a purchase.

January 2009 — This column is produced by the Financial Planning Association, the membership organization for the financial planning community, and is provided by Martin V Higgins,CFP , a local member of FPA.

Congress and the IRS disappointed investors in late 2008. The steep decline in IRA values caused many investors to ask for a suspension or reduction in required minimum distributions from IRAs and other qualified retirement plans for those over age 701,. Congress did not act, and the IRS said it had no authority to suspend the rules.

But changes were made for 2009 RMDs and you  should factor these changes into your planning. We first alerted members to these changes in December with a posting on Bob’s Journal on the members’ section of the web site. You should check the Journal regularly or subscribe to the RSS function that is explained on the site. (The RSS subscription is free.)

The penalty for failing to take an RMD from an IRA or other qualified retirement plan (50% of the amount that was supposed to be distributed) is waived for those who do not take RMDs in 2009. In effect the Worker, Retiree and Employer Recovery Act of2008suspendsRMDs for 2009. You can take whatever amount you want from your IRA in 2009, and that amount will be included in gross income. But you do not have to take the full RMD if you do not need it or want it. The idea is this gives the IRAs a better chance to recover some of their 2008 losses by compounding from a higher base.

The waiver applies to both original owners and to beneficiaries of IRAs and other qualified plans.

The next RMD will be for 2010 and will be based on the Dec. 3 1, 2009 value-if the law is not changed.

A tricky part of the change affects those who tum age 701/2 in 2009 so that their first RMD is due by April1, 2010. For these IRA owners, no distribution is required for 2009, meaning no distribution is required by April 1, 2010. However, those individuals will be required to take the regular2010 RMD by Dec. 31, 2010 using the Dec. 31, 2009 account value.

Likewise, someone who turned age 701, in 2008 still is required to take the first RMD by April 1, 2009 based on the Dec. 31, 2007, account value.

As we discussed last month, this is a good time to convert a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA. This law makes it a little easier. Under regular law, an RMD still must be taken in the year an IRA is converted to a Roth, and the RMD is included in gross income. In 2009, you can convert whatever amount you want (if your adjusted gross income is less than $ 100,000) and not worry about taking an RMD for the year. The full IRA can be converted.

The RMD always seemed to me to be bad policy. It is based on the notion that Congress should provide incentives to save for your retirement but only for your retirement. There shouldn’t be any money left to pass on to heirs unless you die prematurely. The law was developed at a time when life expectancies and retirement were much shorter. For several years there have been. Proposals to either eliminate the RMD or postpone it until a later age. Congress should use this crisis as a reason to take one of those actions.

Money worries are the most common cause of holiday stress, according to Mental Health America. The 2006 study showed that parents are more stressed than all other demographic groups by finances and females are more likely than men to feel stressed by finances.

Money isn’t everyone’s No. 1 worry, but if it’s yours, why not consider the following New Year’s resolutions to improve your financial life?

Resolve:

1. To write down your goals: Have you ever written down the big things you want in life? Granted, all great dreams don’t cost money, but many of them do. Money buys freedom – to travel, to retire early, to start a business, to change careers.  Putting goals in writing gives them a formality and a starting point for the planning you must do.
2. To evaluate your risk tolerance: One of the most beneficial things financial planners do is help you articulate your financial goals and establish (or re-establish) your tolerance for risk. With the market turbulence that’s marked 2008, many individuals would benefit from an analysis of how much risk they want – or need – to take given what they want to achieve with their money.
3. To track your spending: If you haven’t purchased financial accounting software or set up a reliable accounting method of your own, this is the year to do it. Diligent expense tracking is the first critical step to getting personal finances in order.
4. To consider advice on taxes and planning: Maybe you’ve always winged it with your taxes and considered your company 401(k) the ticket to your financial future. Chances are your planning is inadequate. Start getting references on good tax professionals and consider sitting down with a CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™ professional to discuss your current retirement savings picture and what you can do to improve it.
5. To cut your credit card debt: If you can’t ever seem to get yourself completely out of credit card debt, make this the year to do it. Take inventory of your balances, figure out if you can consolidate them under your lowest-rate card, and resolve to pay off an amount that exceeds the minimum – on time, every month.  Oh, and pay cash from now on.
6. To save: If you haven’t signed up for your employer’s 401(k) plan or begun a savings plan tailored for the self-employed, this is the year. And resolve to save at least 5-10 percent of your take-home pay based on your cash flow, and place the maximum in whatever retirement savings plans you qualify for.
7. Get ahead on your mortgage: This advice isn’t for everybody, but if you’ve paid off your credit cards by paying more than the minimum, you can apply the same principle to your mortgage payment. Every dollar you prepay will potentially save thousands in interest over the life of the loan if you plan to stay in your home long-term. In fact, if you make one extra payment a year, either at once or in equal monthly shares over the course of a year, you can cut at least five years of payments on a 30-year loan.  Just don’t short your retirement investment plans to accomplish this.
8. Invest in yourself: If going back to college or taking specific coursework will help you advance in your career, plan to do it. If investing in a health club membership that you actually makes sense for your health as well as your insurance costs, do it.
9. To redefine the way you shop: If you’re an impulse shopper, break the habit in ’09. As a suggestion, get a legal pad and make that your centralized shopping list – use a single page for groceries, stock-up goods (it’s wise to start buying essentials in bulk if you can measure the savings), essential clothing or big expenditures you’ll need to make at specific times. Taking that pad with you wherever you spend money is a good way to keep a grip on your wallet as long as you don’t stray from the list.
10. To attack that miscellaneous column: Do you really need deluxe cable? How much are you paying for your Internet service? Can you wear a sweater around the house and lower the thermostat? In every budget, there are items that can be cut – or at least trimmed. Take a hard look at all your “essentials” to see how essential they really are. Aim for a target of at least 10 percent and start setting that money aside on a regular basis.

The financial and market disruptions are affecting more people than those in or near retirement. While years from their own retirements, young investors are viewing the recent market turmoil and concluding that the financial markets are not for them. They are reducing 401 (k) contributions, taking early withdrawals, and deciding it is better to spend than to save. They worry that investing the little money they have will cause it to disappear.

Traditionally it is tough to convince young people to save. Recent events make it harder. Young investors should view this crisis as an opportunity. They have the most valuable asset: time. They can 10% buy assets today at prices that are the lowest in years and will appear cheap in the future. They should not try to wait for a bottom in the markets and should assume it won’t occur for a while, perhaps years. But they do not have to worry when the markets find a bottom. What matters is that quality assets purchased today will be much more valuable when they want to retire.

Young investors should follow Warren Buffett’s example. He was criticized for amassing cash during the boom years. Recently, he has been investing that cash, having his companies take positions in Constellation Energy, Goldman Sachs, and GE. For the longterm investor who does not need current income from the portfolio, this is a good time to buy quality assets.

The best time to invest is when others are selling in a panic. An investor who can hold for the long term benefits by purchasing at times such as these.

Before investing, however, young investors need to learn lessons from those who recently suffered big losses. Lesson number one is to avoid what seem like the big, easy gains. These usually are very risky investments that depend on everything going in the right direction. If something goes wrong, the result often is not a temporary decline in price but a permanent loss of capital. Avoid large losses.

A related lesson is to avoid debt and leverage. These tools can increase returns when investments are profitable. But they also can result in permanent loss of capital if the asset’s price declines, even when the decline is only temporary.

Time already gives young investors the most valuable leverage. They do not need to take the risk of adding debt to add leverage. A useful tool for young investors is my 70%/2% formula. This was discussed in past VISitS. When someone invests over decades, the compounded returns will be so great that they will account for most of the portfolio. The formula says that when a young person begins investing early, after less than 30 years over 70% of the portfolio will be generated by compounded market returns as  shown in the chart. Annual contributions of $3,000 builds to a portfolio of over $900,000 after 40 years at an 8% annualized return.

Here is what young investors should be doing today.
• Increase contributions to 401 (k) accounts and other investment plans. Do not reduce them.
• Do not lose the employer match. Even if cash is tight, try to contribute at least enough to the 40I(k) plan to earn the maximum employer matching contribution.
• If additional cash flow is available, contribute to other tax-advantaged accounts.

The best option for eligible taxpayers is to contribute to a Roth IRA.
• Don’t let student loans or other debts be an excuse to delay or reduce contributions to taxadvantaged investment plans. Pay for your essential expenses, then pay debts, then contribute to investment plans. Other spending should be considered only after those priorities are taken care of.
• Don’t be intimidated by being a small investor. Employer plans allow minimum contributions of almost any amount. There still are mutual funds, such as Russman Strategic Growth, that have low initial contributions. If you don’t have enough money to meet these minimums, save money in a bank savings or checking account until you meet the minimum level for an investment account.

In the wake of turbulence in the financial markets, it’s worth reviewing the legal protections available for assets held by banks, credit unions, and securities dealers.

Bank/savings and loan deposit accounts

Generally, deposit accounts at banks and savings and loans insured by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) are insured up to $250,000 per depositor per bank. FDIC insurance covers checking, NOW, and savings accounts; money market deposit accounts; and time deposits, such as certificates
of deposit (CDs). It does not cover mutual funds, stocks, bonds, life insurance policies, annuities, or other securities, even if they were bought through an FDIC-insured bank.

You can’t increase your protection simply by opening more than one account in your name at the same bank (for example, splitting the money between a checking and a savings account, or opening accounts at different branches of the same bank). However, deposits that represent different categories of ownership may be independently insured. For example, a joint account qualifies for up to $250,000 of coverage for each person named as a joint owner. That coverage is in addition to the $250,000 maximum coverage for each person’s aggregated single-owner accounts at that bank. For example, a married couple with three accounts at one bank–they each have $250,000 in an individual account, and they also have $200,000 in a joint accountwould qualify for FDIC insurance on the entire $700,000.

The limit on the amount protected in one or more retirement accounts at one bank also is $250,000; this is separate from the $250,000 coverage of individual accounts. (Remember, however, that FDIC insurance applies only to deposit accounts, not to any securities held in an IRA or other retirement account.)

Understanding your money market fund

An investment in a money market mutual fund is not insured or guaranteed by the FDIC or any other government agency. Although the fund seeks to preserve the value of your investment at $1 per share, it is possible to lose money by investing in the fund.

However, if a money market fund participates in the U.S. Treasury’s temporary guarantee program, the Treasury guarantees its $1 per share value through December 18, 2008. The guarantee applies only to assets held in a fund as of the close of business September 19, 2008, or to shares held in the fund when a guarantee payment is made, whichever is less. You cannot acquire insurance for investments made after September 19. You can contact your fund to find out whether it partiCipates in the Treasury program. And before investing in a mutual fund, carefully consider its investment objectives, risks, charges, and expenses, which are contained in the prospectus available from the fund. Read the prospectus carefully before investing.

There also may be additional safety nets. In some states, a state-chartered savings bank is required to have additional insurance to cover any losses beyond the FDIC limits. Some banks also may participate in the Certificate of Deposit Account Registry Service (CDARS), which enables a bank to spread large CD deposits among multiple banks while keeping the amount at each individual bank, including the original bank, within FDIC insurance limits. According to the FDIC, no depositor has ever lost a penny of funds that were covered by FDIC insurance. An online calculator at the FDIC’s website, www.fdic.gov, can help you estimate the total FDIC coverage on your deposit accounts.

Credit unions

Member share accounts at most credit unions are insured by the National Credit Union Share Insurance Fund (NCUSIF). It is administered by the National Credit Union Administration (NCUA), which like the FDIC is an independent agency of the federal government and is backed by the full faith and credit of the U.S. Treasury. (Some credit unions are not federally insured but are overseen by state regulators; they typically have private credit insurance.)

NCUSIF insurance is similar to FDIC insurance; it covers share accounts, share certificates, and share draft accounts but not investment products sold through a credit union. It covers single-owner accounts up to $250,000 per customer per institution. Retirement accounts such as IRAs and Keoghs have separate coverage up to $250,000. As with bank deposit accounts, independent coverage may be available for different categories of ownership. You can estimate your existing coverage by using the calculator at the NCUA’s website (www.ncua.gov).

Brokerage accounts and SIPC

Most brokerage accounts are covered by the Securities Investor Protection Corporation (SIPC). Unlike the FDIC, the SIPC is not a government agency but a nonprofit corporation funded by broker-dealers registered with the Securities and Exchange Commission. (A non-SIPC member must disclose that fact.)

SIPC was created by Congress in 1970 to help return customer property if a broker-dealer or clearing firm experiences insolvency, unauthorized trading, or securities that are lost or missing from a customer’s account. Many brokerages also extend coverage beyond the SIPC limits with additional private insurance. If a member firm became insolvent, SIPC would typically either act as trustee or ask a court to appoint a trustee to supervise transfer of customer securities and cash. The SEC requires brokerages and clearing firms to segregate customer accounts from their proprietary assets and funds.

SIPC covers a maximum of $500,000 per individual account (including up to $100,000 in cash) at a given firm. As with banks, total coverage can be higher for multiple accounts at one institution. For example, a married couple could have two individual accounts with $500,000 worth of coverage each, plus a joint account that would bring their aggregated coverage for that firm to $1.5 million. Each of your retirement accounts at a firm also is generally eligible for another $500,000 of SIPC coverage (including up to $100,000 in cash).

SIPC doesn’t protect against market risk or price fluctuations. If shares lose value before a trustee is appointed, that loss of value is not covered by SIPC. In general, SIPC covers notes, stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and other shares in investment companies. It does not cover investments that are not registered
with the SEC, such as certain investment contracts, limited partnerships, fixed annuity contracts, currency, gold, silver, commodity futures contracts, or commodities options.

Regardless of where you have your money, it can pay to understand just how it’s protected.

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Prepared by Forefield Inc, Copyright 2008

James Swanson commentary on these extraordinary times:

The headlines of late have compared the current credit crisis with the crash of 1929. Here are five reasons why I disagree with this assessment.

1. Bank deposit insurance. This program was created after the events of 1929. The Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation was set up in 1933 to guarantee the safety of checking and savings deposits. Today, with that insurance in place, the average investor is assured that his or her deposits up to certain amounts are safe.
2. Knowledge. The year 1929 has been very closely studied. U.S. Federal Reserve Board Chairman Ben S. Bernanke made his career and fame as an academic by studying the causes, ramifications, and solutions to the events of 1929. Has he acted on this? He sure has. As head of the central bank, he began cutting rates a year ago, and since then he has implemented very creative and unusual liquidity plans in the United States to help shore up both the economy and the financial system. Under his leadership, we have seen the creation of an extremely decisive and activist Fed.
3. A manufacturing versus a service economy. In 1929 the U.S. economy was much more oriented toward manufacturing, which is cyclical. Today, the economy is service oriented, which tends to be more stable. Federal, state, and local government workers are a big component of our service economy today and make up about 20% of the work force. The number of these workers is increasing not declining. Health care and education, which compose about 8% and 3% to 4% of the economy, respectively, are industries that are not as susceptible to cycles and whose work forces are expanding.
4. Farming. Back in 1929, one in five workers was employed in agriculture. Today that number has declined to 2 out of 100 workers. Back then, irrigation was unsophisticated, and many of the grain-producing states were in the midst of a drought. Given the large numbers of workers employed in farming, unemployment became a problem. We are not experiencing this type of labor crisis today.
5. Trade. During the 1920s and 1930s trade laws were extremely draconian and restrictive. These laws essentially created an environment of tit for tat among countries. This environment had the effect of restricting trade among various nations. We are not experiencing a similar situation today. Trade is flowing very freely compared with that era.

This is not a perfect world, but it is too easy to make dramatic comparisons to a distant age when many of those comparisons are invalid.

The views expressed in Chief Investment Strategist Corner are those of James Swanson and are current through September 24, 2008. They do not necessarily reflect the views of MFS® portfolio managers or other persons in the MFS organization. These views are subject to change at any time based on market and other conditions, and MFS disclaims any responsibility to update such views. No forecasts can be guaranteed. These views may not be relied upon as investment advice or as an indication of trading intent on behalf of any MFS fund.

The investments you choose should correspond to your financial needs, goals, and risk tolerance. For assistance in determining your financial situation, please consult a financial advisor.

Source: MFS research
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